One of the early plans of our trip had been to get to Torres Del Paine Natational park and hike the “W” circuit. This is one of those hikes that people just do, kinda like the Inca trail. The problem is we’ve not really been hiking so much over recent years and we were a bit nervous. There is a ton of ways to see the park and after doing what research we could looking at everything from completely solo to full guided, we elected to have our accommodation and food sorted for us but we would trek on our own.
We left Puerto Natales early in bright blue and wind free skies, heading for Torres NP. The day was gorgeous and by 10am we started the hike towards Chileno campsite on the way to the Torres lookout. It was all up hill. For just under 2 hours. And we were unaccustomed. When we stopped to take a breath it was a gorgeous site. The sun was bouncing around the valley and up into the mountains and rivers that we were along. It was easy to see straight away why this was popular area to hike. There was no energy for photos on the way up though.
Arriving at Chileno campsite, halfway to the mirador, we checked-in to our pre-set up tent, had some lunch, and filled our water at the glacial stream flowing past, which BTW was freezing but tasted perfect. We initially were planning to make a run for the Torres Mirador for sunrise but the weather was so good in the afternoon and the following day not looking great so we made a run for after lunch and were greeted with a spectacular site.
It was lucky we went in the afternoon as the rain and clouds obstructed any view of the Torres the next morning. I was sad not to be able to see the Torres at sunrise, something I had wanted to see for many years, but that’s just how the weather goes.
That second morning was a bit easier as we headed back down hill, along Lago Nordenskjol to Cuernos refugio. The skies were moody as we trekked along with a mixture of sun, rain, snow, and just a little bit of wind. Like the previous day, we arrived just in time as the real rain started just as we arrived and settled in to our next tent.
The third day was going to be a big day. Leaving from Cuernos, our aim was to pass by Campo Italiano and up into French Valley for the middle part of the “W”. From Campo Italiano it was again all up hill till Campo Britanico. We got a little distracted along the way in the beautiful morning sunshine as well as stuck crossing a stream or two. We got as far as the French Valley Mirador but as we pressed on toward Britanico the winds picked up making it hard to walk straight and much less enjoyable. We decided to turn back early and head towards our next camp.
French Valley Mirador
On the way there we passed through an area of the park devastated by fire in 2009. At one point you can see the line where the fire stopped.
Walking through this dead forest was amazing and sad at the same time. The fire restrictions in the park have thankfully become super tight since this sad event.
It was a good idea for us to turn back early though as the winds made the last few kilometers hard going and by the time we arrived we had been going for about 10 hours. Turning the final hill though, Paine grande Refugio was the perfect site. The largest of the refugios (there is a boat that goes to and from there), tonight we were going to be sleeping inside. So greatful given the wind, and once again the rain that started just as we arrived.
Refugio Paine Grande
The fourth day was making our way to Grey Glacier. It was another small day to reach the Grey Refugio, with the plan to get then to see if we could go further up to the hill to the glacier. After a long day the day before and ongoing strong winds (106Km/hr), the walk up was a little tiring but beautiful as we cruised over the hill to Lago Grey and views of the glacier.
Glacier Grey
When we arrived at Grey refugio, the weather turned again and from that point a few drinks inside sound like a much better idea.
The final day we hoped to get in Kayaks in the morning before taking the boat along the glacier and down Lago Grey. Unfortunately the weather from the day before continued, cancelling the Kayaking and making walking a bit miserable. We went for a small wander between bad weather before having some lunch and getting on the boat, happy we completed our “W” circuit.
It was easy to see why people loved this trip. For us it was a little hard going at time and those who do the full circuit amaze me. The weather here is a torment though. We had an excellent run of weather in fairness. It wasn’t till after we’ve left the park that we heard the day of strong winds for usturned over a bus of tourists on their way in (a few with serious injuries) and closed half the park. Hopefully we can come back another time and complete the north side of the full circuit and fingers crossed for as good weather.
Now it's back to Puerto Natales before heading to El Calafate. 21164Km (14011Km Flights, 6000Km Sailing, 1076Km bus, 77km hiking)